Fitting and Final Assembly

 Baste the brim at a 1/2" from the edges. Cut notches in this edge just like you did for the outer edge. Try the brim on. It should fit a little loosely at that basted line. (Figure to the right.)

If it fits tightly, cut out only 1/4" of material and try again. You do not want it too big, but repeat this step if it is still too tight. Continue until you get the fit you like.

Making the Crown

Sew the pieces of the crown together so the right sides of the fabric are facing each other, and the buckram is facing outside(Figure 5.) Clip the seam allowance into that sawtooth pattern again and turn the crown right-sides-out (Figure 6.) Sew the lining togetether, too, in this same manner. (The pieces illustrated in grey below represent Buckram. You want double layers for the crown.)



Now, you have two halves to this hat: the brim assembly and the crown assembly. Both of these halves should be right sides out. Line up the holes and pin them together, being careful not to pin the crown down. Baste the brim and crown assemblies together. If the crown buckles a little on the sides (Figure 7,) when you slip it into the hole in the brim, then you have to take in the seams a little at each corner, without altering the height of the crown, until it fits neither with buckling, nor with gaps from being too small (Figure 8.) You should be able to fit the crown into the hole, and completely conceal the sawtooth edge of the hole. You will size the lining the same way, then set it aside to topstitch in later. Once you have the fit right, pin the crown in place and sew it onto the brim.

Take a moment to look at your sewing machine. Most machines have a "free arm", which means that you can stick the bottom part of the sewing machine into things like sleeves and pant legs, so you can sew them properly instead of sewing them shut. Sometimes, there is a part of the machine that you have to remove to get the "free arm" to work. Please do this now, because you are going to sew the two halves of your hat together using the "free arm"`of your machine.

Stick the "free arm" into the hole and sew along the final seam line, 1/2" from the inner edge. Also, zig-zag the edge between the seam and the notches you cut out earlier, to keep the fabric from unraveling at the seam. Fold the raw edge of the lining under 1/2" to finish the edge, and sew the inner hat band (if you chose to use one) onto it.  Then topstitch the lining into the hat, concealing the raw edges of the hole and crown.

Top of Page

Back to Page One: Step One

Back to Page Two: Setting Up the Pattern

LBack to Page 3: Laying out the Pattern and Sewing

Finishing Touches